Edge Control

Edge control is a staple product in many natural hair care routines for curly, coily, or tightly textured hair. It’s specially designed to smooth and lay down edges, hold the fine, delicate hairs around the hairline, commonly called “baby hairs” providing long-lasting hold, sleekness, and definition. But creating an edge control that performs well requires more than just strong hold, it demands thoughtful formulation.

But what exactly goes into a good edge control formula? Let’s explore the key ingredients and what to consider formulating edge control.

In this post, we break down what edge control is, how to use it effectively, and what goes into formulating edge control.

What is Edge Control?

Edge control is a thick, gel-like styling product designed specifically to tame and shape the fine, delicate hairs along the hairline and provide firm to strong hold to keep edges and hair sleek, laid, and in place throughout the day. Unlike regular hair gels, edge control is more concentrated, offering a stronger hold without flaking or drying out the hair.

An effective edge control formulation should deliver:

• Long-lasting hold without curl reversion (curl back)

• Resistance to humidity and sweat (anti-humectant)

• A non-greasy, non-sticky, and non-flaky finish

• No product buildup and easy rinse-out

Edge control is especially popular for textured hair, including curly, and coily hair types. However, its performance can vary across hair types. For example:

• 4B and 4C hair often requires extra-strong hold for optimal results

• 3B hair may not need as much hold and can benefit from a slightly lighter formulation

• A lighter edge control can also be used to smooth flyaways on straight hair

How to Use Edge Control

1. Start with a small amount of edge control using your fingertip, a small edge brush, or a toothbrush.

2. Apply to the hairline and smooth or sculpt the edges into your desired shape.

3. Wrap the edges with a silky scarf to set and hold them in place.

4. Allow to dry, then gently remove the scarf for sleek, finished edges.

Formulating Edge Control

Key Functional Ingredients in Edge Control

Note: Most Edge Controls cannot be claimed as natural. They contain petroleum derived ingredients. These ingredients are included in this chart.

Formulating Edge Control: What to Consider

When developing your edge control product, consider the following:

✔️ Desired Hold Level

• Stronger hold? Add or use higher levels of PVP or VP/VA Copolymer.

• Softer hold? Use more natural gums like celluose or xanthan, and emollients.

✔️ Shine Factor

• Oils like castor and babassu provide high shine.

• Use lightweight oils to prevent build-up or greasiness.

✔️ Moisture Balance

• Include humectants for hydration, but balance them to avoid tackiness or lifting in humid weather.

✔️ Scalp Sensitivity

• Keep fragrance and essential oils at low percentages.

• Choose gentle, non-irritating preservatives.

Packaging Tips

Edge control is best packaged in:

• Glass or PET jars with wide mouths (2 oz–4 oz)

Label clearly with: Hold level, texture type, directions for use, and shelf life.

Download the FREE Edge Control Ingredients Guide

Get our one-page summary of ingredients used in natural edge control formulation.

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Two Edge Control Formulations in the Pro Natural Hair Course

If you’re passionate about creating natural, effective hair products like edge control, our Professional Natural Hair Care Formulation Course will guide you step-by-step through product development, ingredient science, and making haircare formulations. Creating effective edge control products involves testing, tweaking, and selecting the right ingredients for performance and safety. Here are two key edge control formulations Joan Morais has formulated available in the Pro Natural Hair Care Course.  The Traditional Edge Control formulation  would cost at least $10,000 to be custom developed by a cosmetic formulator. The formulas are yours in the course.

➡️ Explore the Pro Hair Care Course here

1. Natural Edge Control Gel

This formula is a thick, gel-like edge control that provides a light to medium hold. It’s designed to be a more natural alternative, free from PEGs and Ceteareth-20/25, which are commonly found in traditional formulations.

Creating this formula took over 20 iterations to achieve the right balance of performance and natural ingredients. The result is a clean, effective gel that works across most hair types, perfect for those seeking a gentle, more natural option.

2. Traditional Edge Control

This is a clear, viscous edge control similar to those found in retail products. It offers a strong, long-lasting hold that keeps edges sleek and defined without flaking. It cannot be claimed as natural, it contains ingredients derived from petroleum, ceteareth-25, PEG-7 glyceryl monococoate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

These ingredients are used exclusively in this Traditional Edge Control for their high performance. Many of our students have requested a formula that closely matches market products. While they are comfortable with these ingredients, they prefer to create and sell their own versions rather than buy mass-produced options.

This formulation was developed specifically for them, providing a stable, professional-quality edge control that performs reliably on curls, coils, and highly textured hair.

Whether you’re formulating for yourself or your brand, understanding the needs of natural hair and the function of each ingredient is key to creating effective edge control. From natural gels to traditional clear formulas, both have a place depending on your audience and product goals.

If you’re ready to start formulating or expanding your natural hair product line, join the Professional Natural Hair Care Formulation Course.