Inclusive Skincare
And Why Formulators Are Needed to Meet the Demand
The global beauty industry has made progress in celebrating diverse skin tones, but there’s still a major gap when it comes to skincare products tailored for darker skin tones. Despite having unique needs, such as increased melanin activity, sensitivity to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and a natural glow that can be dulled by harsh products, many mainstream skincare lines still use a one-size-fits-all approach.
This presents a powerful opportunity for cosmetic formulators: To fill this need and create effective, respectful, and science-backed skincare products for deeper skin tones.
At Joan Morais Cosmetics School + The Formulators LAB, we believe inclusive formulation is essential to serving real people. Whether you’re a formulator looking to specialize, or a brand seeking to expand your offerings, understanding the wide range of darker skin tones and their specific care needs is the foundation. Read this post on Formulating Inclusive Skincare for Darker Skin Tones.Â
Darker Skin Tone Chart
| Tone Category | Description | Undertones | Key Skincare Focus Areas |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ultra Deep | Deep tone with high melanin concentration | Cool, Neutral, Warm | Deep hydration, gentle exfoliation, even skin tone, sun protection |
| Deep Espresso | Deep tone with neutral to warm depth | Neutral, Warm | Enhance moisture retention, fade PIH, sun protection |
| Deep Mahogany | Deep tone with reddish-brown depth with warmth | Warm (red/golden) | Nurture skin barrier with nourishing oils, balance tone, sun protection |
| Cool Mocha | Medium deep tone with cool or neutral base | Neutral, Cool | Strengthen skin barrier, soothe skin, support elasticity, sun protection |
| Golden Bronze | Medium deep tone with golden or olive undertones | Warm (golden/olive) | Enhance natural glow, prevent uneven patches, sun protection |
| Deep Bronze | Medium deep tone with warmth | Warm, Neutral | Maintain radiance, balance sebum and hydration, sun protection |
| Warm Bronze | Medium deep tone with a mix of warm yellow and red hues | Warm | Protect skin from sun, gentle exfoliation, balance tone, hydration, sun protection |
Understanding Undertones
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Cool: Red, blue, or purple undertones
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Neutral: A mix of both warm and cool
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Warm: Golden, yellow, or red undertones
Tip: Always test products in natural light on the jawline or neck for best match.
Real skin is complex and layered. This chart is a general guide, not a rigid system.
Download Deep Skin Tones Chart
Formulating for Function and Concern
To address the real needs of darker skin tones, formulators must select ingredients that go beyond trend, they must perform.
Suggested Ingredient by Concern:
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Brightening & Tone Correction: Licorice root extract, niacinamide, alpha arbutin
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Deep Hydration & Barrier Repair: Shea butter, squalane, ceramides, panthenol
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Evening Tone & Anti-Inflammatory: Green tea, calendula, centella asiatica
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SPF for Deep Skin (No White Cast): Non-whitening mineral blends or sheer chemical sunscreen
The Opportunity for Formulators
There is an urgent and exciting demand for skincare products that truly work for darker skin tones, without leaving behind a white cast, drying the skin, or using overly harsh exfoliants.
If you are a cosmetic formulator or aspiring to become one, now is the time to:
- Specialize in inclusive skincare
- Create targeted products for underserved tone categories
- Help brands fill this important gap in the industry
You can make an impact.
Let’s create skincare that sees, respects, and serves all skin tones.
Learn to Formulate Inclusive Skincare
At Joan Morais Cosmetics School + The Formulators LAB, our formulation courses and classes teach you how to create natural, high-performance skincare products for all skin tones, with a focus on diversity and inclusion.
🧴 Ready to develop products for darker skin tones?
📚 Explore our Professional Skin Care Formulation Course.
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