Bridging the Gap: Inclusive Skincare for Darker Skin Tones

And Why Formulators Are Needed to Meet the Demand

The global beauty industry has made progress in celebrating diverse skin tones, but there’s still a major gap when it comes to skincare products tailored for darker skin tones. Despite having unique needs, such as increased melanin activity, sensitivity to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and a natural glow that can be dulled by harsh products, many mainstream skincare lines still use a one-size-fits-all approach.

This presents a powerful opportunity for cosmetic formulators: To fill this need and create effective, respectful, and science-backed skincare products for deeper skin tones.

At Joan Morais Cosmetics School + The Formulators LAB, we believe inclusive formulation is essential to serving real people. Whether you’re a formulator looking to specialize, or a brand seeking to expand your offerings, understanding the wide range of darker skin tones and their specific care needs is the foundation. Read this post on Formulating Inclusive Skincare for Darker Skin Tones.

Darker Skin Tone Chart

Tone Category	Description	Undertones	Key Skincare Focus Areas
Deep Ebony	Very dark with high melanin concentration	Cool, Neutral, Warm	Deep hydration, gentle exfoliation, brightening dullness, even skin tone
Ebony	Deep chocolate brown	Neutral, Warm	Targeted moisture retention, fade PIH, antioxidant protection
Deep Mahogany	Reddish-brown depth with noticeable warmth	Warm (red/golden)	Reduce blotchiness, restore barrier with nourishing oils, balance tone
Rich Walnut	Smooth dark brown, less red	Neutral, Cool	Strengthen skin barrier, soothe inflammation, support elasticity
Golden Cocoa	Deep brown with a golden or olive glow	Warm (golden/olive)	Enhance natural glow, prevent uneven patches, protect from photoaging
Deep Bronze	On the lighter end of deep tones, radiant look	Warm, Neutral	Maintain radiance, protect from sun damage, balance sebum and hydration
Warm Almond	Medium-deep brown with yellow-red undertones	Warm	Fade dark marks, tone correction, lightweight hydration, reduce shine

Understanding Undertones

Cool: Red, blue, or purple undertones
Neutral: A mix of both warm and cool
Warm: Golden, yellow, or red undertones

Tip: Always test products in natural light on the jawline or neck for best match.

Real skin is complex and layered. This chart is a general guide, not a rigid system.

Download Darker Skin Tone Chart

Formulating for Function and Concern

To address the real needs of darker skin tones, formulators must select ingredients that go beyond trend, they must perform.

Suggested Ingredient by Concern:

Brightening & Tone Correction: Licorice root extract, niacinamide, alpha arbutin
Deep Hydration & Barrier Repair: Shea butter, squalane, ceramides, panthenol
Evening Tone & Anti-Inflammatory: Green tea, calendula, centella asiatica
SPF for Deep Skin (No White Cast): Non-whitening mineral blends or sheer chemical sunscreen

The Opportunity for Formulators

There is an urgent and exciting demand for skincare products that truly work for darker skin tones, without leaving behind a white cast, drying the skin, or using overly harsh exfoliants.

If you are a cosmetic formulator or aspiring to become one, now is the time to:

Specialize in inclusive skincare
Create targeted products for underserved tone categories
Help brands fill this important gap in the industry

You can make an impact.

Let’s create skincare that sees, respects, and serves all skin tones.

Learn to Formulate Inclusive Skincare

At Joan Morais Cosmetics School + The Formulators LAB, our formulation courses and classes teach you how to create natural, high-performance skincare products for all skin tones, with a focus on diversity and inclusion.

🧴 Ready to develop products for darker skin tones?
📚 Explore our Professional Skin Care Formulation Course.