Vitamin C Overview 

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant essential for skin health and overall wellness. It helps brighten the skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, diminish fine lines and wrinkles, and prevent premature aging. It’s also vital for collagen production, which gives skin strength and elasticity. Found abundantly in red, orange, and yellow fruits and vegetables, especially citrus. Vitamin C must be consumed daily. It can also be applied topically, where different forms offer varied benefits depending on stability, solubility, and percentage used in the formulation. There are different types of Vitamin C and it is important to choose the best form for your formulation. Read this post on Choosing the Right Vitamin C for Your Formulations.

Download our Vitamin C Types in Skincare – Quick Guide & Comparison

Forms of Vitamin C in Skincare

Ascorbic Acid

• INCI: Ascorbic Acid
• A potent water-soluble antioxidant that stimulates collagen and improves skin tone.
• Reduces sun damage and fades age spots.
• Form: Powder
• Stability: Unstable
• Solubility: Water-soluble
• Note: Most effective when freshly mixed; loses potency quickly.
   

L-Ascorbic Acid

• INCI: L-Ascorbic Acid
• Similar to ascorbic acid but considered more effective.
• Promotes elasticity, collagen production, and brightens the skin.
• Form: Powder
• Stability: Unstable
• Solubility: Water-soluble
• Note: Most effective when freshly mixed; loses potency quickly.

3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

• INCI: 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Water
• A stable vitamin C derivative bound to glycerin.
• Offers hydration, antioxidant protection, and melanin inhibition.
• Suitable for high-percentage serums.
• Form: Liquid
• Stability: Stable
• Solubility: Water-soluble

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

• INCI: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
• A stable water-soluble form of vitamin C that’s gentle on sensitive skin.
• Promotes collagen, lightly exfoliates, and helps reduce dark spots.
• Ideal for emulsions.
• Form: Powder
• Stability: Stable
• Solubility: Water-soluble

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

• INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
• A stable, water-soluble form that’s easily absorbed and gentle on the skin.
• Brightens skin, reduces wrinkles, and supports collagen production.
• Form: Powder
• Stability: Stable
• Solubility: Water-soluble

L-Ascorbyl Palmitate

• INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate
• A stable oil-soluble vitamin C ester with antioxidant and emulsifying effects.
• Protects against formulation oxidation, improves fragile skin, and minimizes wrinkles.
• Form: Powder
• Stability: Stable
• Solubility: Oil-soluble
• Note: Most effective when freshly mixed; loses potency quickly.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA)

• INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
• A highly stable, oil-soluble vitamin C ester with excellent skin penetration.
• Brightens skin, fades age spots and hyperpigmentation, and defends against UV damage.
• Supports collagen production
• Form: Viscous liquid
• Stability: Stable
• Solubility: Oil-soluble

Experience a high performance, elegantly formulated Vitamin C serum formulation, clinically inspired with synergistic ingredients and ready for you to make and take to market. Available exclusively in the Pro Skin Care Course in  Module 10, our CoQ10 + Vitamin C Serum.

Get this formula now plus many other formulations in Pro Skin Care Course