Inclusive Skincare for Darker Skin Tones: What You Need to Know

Skin care is not one-size-fits-all. At Joan Morais Cosmetics School + The Formulators LAB, we believe in formulating inclusive, effective, and thoughtful skincare products for all skin tones, especially the often-overlooked needs of darker and deep skin tones. Rich in melanin, dark skin has unique characteristics, like more resilience to UV damage, but also greater susceptibility to hyperpigmentation and uneven tone. Inclusive skincare means formulating with intention, respect, and science-backed understanding. Learn about darker skin tones in this post.

The Importance of Inclusive Formulation

Historically, skincare products have often been developed with lighter skin in mind. This results in formulations that may not address the specific concerns common in deeper complexions. For truly inclusive skincare, formulators must:

• Use actives that target hyperpigmentation without causing irritation.

• Offer non-whitening sunscreens.

• Support hydration and barrier repair with ingredients that nourish richly melanated skin.

Inclusive skincare empowers confidence and comfort in every complexion.

Yes, Dark Skin Needs Sunscreen Too

A common misconception is that melanin-rich skin doesn’t need sun protection. While melanin provides some natural SPF (~13), it’s not enough to protect against cumulative UV damage, discoloration, and skin cancer.

The key is choosing sunscreens that:

• Don’t leave a white cast (tinted mineral or sheer chemical sunscreens).

• Include broad-spectrum SPF 30+.

• Are lightweight and breathable, ideal for darker skin.

Formulator Tip: Use encapsulated zinc oxide or natural oils with mild SPF activity (like red raspberry seed oil) in supportive formulations.

Tackling Hyperpigmentation in Darker Skin

Hyperpigmentation—especially post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)—is a top concern for people with dark skin tones. Even minor breakouts or cuts can leave long-lasting dark spots.

Formulation must-haves for evening tone:

• Niacinamide: Evens skin tone and reduces inflammation.

• Alpha arbutin: Safe and gentle brightener for deeper tones.

• Licorice root extract: Calms skin and helps fade discoloration.

• Azelaic acid or lactic acid: Gently exfoliates and brightens.

Avoid overly aggressive treatments like high-strength AHAs or hydroquinone, which can worsen pigmentation or irritate melanin-rich skin.

Daily Skincare for Deep Complexions

Healthy skin starts with a consistent, nourishing routine. For dark skin tones, the goal is hydration, even tone, barrier support, and glow.

Ideal skincare routine:

1. Gentle Cleanser – No stripping; look for pH-balanced options.

2. Toner/Tonic or Essence – Hydrating and calming, with botanical waters.

3. Treatment Serum – Include brighteners or anti-inflammatory ingredients.

4. Moisturizer – Rich in ceramides, shea butter, squalane, or jojoba oil.

5. Sunscreen (AM) – Apply each day.

6. Overnight Mask or Oil (PM) – To lock in moisture and repair overnight.

At Joan Morais Cosmetics School + The Formulators LAB, Inclusivity is Our Standard

We train cosmetic formulators to develop products that serve all skin types and tones, with deep respect for diversity. Our courses cover skin biology for deeper complexions and how to formulate gentle, effective, and inclusive skincare that supports melanin-rich skin.

Whether you’re creating a brand or crafting formulations for yourself or others, inclusivity should never be an afterthought, it should be the foundation.

Learn to Formulate for Every Skin Tone

Join our Professional Natural Skin Care Course and start formulating inclusive, high-performance skincare for all skin—from the deepest ebony to the fairest ivory.

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