Sensitive Skin

Introduction

Sensitive skin affects millions of people and is one of the most common skin concerns in cosmetic formulation. If your skin easily becomes red, feels tight, itchy, stings, or reacts to skincare products or environmental triggers, you may have sensitive skin. These symptoms can make selecting and formulating skincare challenging, but with the right knowledge, formulation techniques, and gentle plant-based ingredients, sensitive skin can thrive.

At Joan Morais Cosmetics School, we teach the science behind the skin and how to formulate calming, effective, natural skincare for sensitive skin types, products that restore balance, comfort, and confidence.

Understanding Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is not a single skin type but rather a reactive condition that can affect all skin types, dry, oily, or combination. It’s a sign that the skin barrier and sensory nerve endings are overstimulated or compromised.

Common Causes of Sensitivity

Sensitive skin can result from both internal and external factors:

External Triggers

• Environmental stressors: pollution, UV exposure, extreme temperatures, and wind.

• Harsh skincare products: strong surfactants, exfoliants, alcohols, or synthetic fragrance.

• Over-cleansing or over-exfoliating: stripping the lipid barrier and disrupting the microbiome.

• Frequent product switching: overloading the skin with active ingredients.

Internal Triggers

• Genetic predisposition: fair or thinner skin tends to be more reactive.

• Skin conditions: eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, or contact dermatitis.

• Lifestyle and stress: diet, hormonal fluctuations, and lack of sleep can increase skin reactivity.

When the skin barrier (stratum corneum) is weakened, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases, allowing irritants and allergens to penetrate more easily, leading to inflammation and discomfort.

Characteristics of Sensitive Skin

Formulators and consumers can identify sensitive skin by these common signs:

• Flushing, redness, or blotchiness

• Burning, stinging, or itching sensations

• Tightness after cleansing or product use

• Dryness, dehydration, or flaking

• Sensitivity to weather or temperature changes

• Reactions to fragrances, alcohol, or essential oils

Understanding these traits allows formulators to choose ingredients and formulation systems that soothe and strengthen rather than aggravate the skin.

Formulating for Sensitive Skin

When formulating for sensitive skin, the priority is barrier support, hydration, and minimalism. Each ingredient should serve a purpose and be included at the mildest effective concentration.

Formulation Goals

1. Restore and protect the skin barrier.

2. Hydrate and lock in moisture.

3. Calm inflammation and irritation.

4. Maintain pH balance (ideal range: 4.5–5.5).

5. Avoid unnecessary additives or potential allergens.

Recommended Product Types

• Gentle Cleansers: sulfate-free, low-foam systems using mild surfactants (e.g., Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Decyl Glucoside).

• Barrier Creams and Moisturizers: lightweight emulsions rich in ceramide mimics, squalane, and fatty acids.

• Soothing Tonics, or Mists: alcohol-free hydrosol blends (e.g., rose, chamomile, cucumber).

• Hydrating Serums: containing humectants like glycerin, sodium PCA, and panthenol.

• Mask Treatments: colloidal oatmeal, aloe, or white clay-based masks for calming irritation.

Beneficial Ingredients for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin thrives on soothing, anti-inflammatory, and barrier-repairing ingredients. Natural and biocompatible actives offer gentle yet effective care.

Formulation Tip: Combine a humectant (glycerin, sodium PCA), an emollient (squalane, jojoba oil), and an occlusive (plant wax, butters) to create balanced, barrier-protective formulations.

Ingredients to Avoid

Sensitive skin requires extra caution. Even natural ingredients can cause reactions in compromised skin.

Avoid or use sparingly:

• Synthetic fragrances and dyes – top irritants for reactive skin.

• Harsh alcohols (SD alcohol, denatured alcohol) – dry and strip the barrier.

• Strong exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA) – use mild acids under expert guidance.

• Sulfates (SLS, SLES) – harsh foaming agents.

• Essential oils at high concentration – limit to ≤0.3% or avoid entirely for very reactive skin.

• Preservatives known for irritation – such as formaldehyde donors or methylisothiazolinone.

Always perform patch testing and use pH-balanced, and fragrance-free formulas.

Helpful Tips for Caring for Sensitive Skin

1. Keep routines simple: 3–4 products focused on cleanse, hydrate, and protect.

2. Hydrate consistently: use humectant-rich mists and emollient moisturizers.

3. Avoid over-exfoliation: once weekly with mild fruit enzymes if tolerated.

4. Protect daily: broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

5. Mind the pH: maintain formulations between 4.5 and 5.5 to support barrier function.

6. Preserve gently: choose broad-spectrum, natural-compatible systems like Geogard Ultra, Leucidal SF Complete, or Dermosoft® 1388.

7. Educate your customers: teach them about patch testing and proper product storage.

Download The Sensitive Skin Guide

How Joan Morais Cosmetics School Supports Sensitive Skin Formulators

At Joan Morais Cosmetics School, our courses teach how to formulate for every skin type, especially sensitive and reactive skin. You’ll gain a deep understanding of:

• The science of skin anatomy, biology, and physiology

• Ingredient selection and formulation design for calm, resilient skin

• How to build stable, effective, and safe natural formulations

• Premium skin care formulations.

• Compliance and safety standards including MoCRA and COSMOS

Our students have successfully launched brands centered on sensitive and minimalist skincare, combining science and sustainability with the art of natural formulation.

At Joan Morais Cosmetics School, we believe in the harmony of nature, science, and education, empowering you to create products that bring comfort and confidence to every skin type.

Ready to learn how to formulate gentle, effective skincare?
Enroll in our Professional Natural Skin Care Formulation Course and start creating products that truly make a difference.