Montanov® 82 vs. Montanov® 68: Which Natural Emulsifier Should You Choose?

What Are Montanov® Emulsifiers?

Montanov emulsifiers are derived from plant-based fatty alcohols and sugars. They form lamellar liquid crystal structures that closely resemble the organization of lipids in the skin’s stratum corneum. Learn about lamellar liquid crystal structures here. This type of emulsion helps improve moisturization, enhances skin feel, and contributes to excellent long-term stability.

Both emulsifiers are:

• PEG-free
• Non-ionic
• Biodegradable
• Suitable for natural and organic formulations
• Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients

The main difference lies in the texture and viscosity they produce.

Montanov® 82

INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside

Montanov 82 creates elegant, lightweight emulsions with excellent spreadability and a fast-absorbing finish.

Best Applications

Montanov 82 is ideal for:

• Facial lotions
• Lightweight facial moisturizers
• Body lotions
• Facial milks
• Gel-creams
• Hand lotions
• After-sun lotions
• Daily moisturizers
• Lightweight men’s skin care
• Products designed for oily, combination, or normal skin

It is particularly useful when you want a lotion that feels silky rather than rich or heavy.

Recommended Usage Level

Typical usage:

2–5%

Typical oil phase:

8–20%

For most lotions:

• 3–4% Montanov 82
• 10–18% total oil phase

Characteristics

Produces:

• Fluid emulsions
• Fast absorption
• Light, silky skin feel
• Minimal waxiness
• Elegant slip
• Low tack

Because it produces lighter structures, formulas containing high levels of butters may require additional viscosity support.

Montanov® 68

INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside

Montanov 68 produces richer emulsions with greater body and viscosity while maintaining an elegant skin feel.

Best Applications

Montanov 68 works exceptionally well in:

• Facial creams
• Rich moisturizers
• Barrier creams
• Night creams
• Hand creams
• Body creams
• Baby creams
• Mature skin formulations
• Ceramide creams
• Products containing butters

It excels when a more luxurious cream texture is desired.

Recommended Usage Level

Typical usage:

3–6%

Typical oil phase:

15–30%

For many facial creams:

• 4–5% Montanov 68
• 18–25% oil phase

Characteristics

Produces:

• Thick creams
• Rich texture
• Excellent cushion
• Strong emulsion stability
• Creamy, moisturizing finish
• Excellent compatibility with butters and richer oils

Side-by-Side Comparison

Choosing Between Them

Choose Montanov 82 if you want:

• A lightweight daily moisturizer
• A lotion that absorbs quickly
• An elegant facial milk
• A non-greasy body lotion
• Products designed for warmer climates

Choose Montanov 68 if you want:

• A luxurious facial cream
• A rich body moisturizer
• Barrier repair formulations
• Creams with butters
• More structure and viscosity

Download the free Montanov® 82 vs. Montanov® 68 comparison handout for a convenient reference to usage levels, formulation applications, key differences, and processing guidelines.

Basic Procedure for Using Montanov® 82 and Montanov® 68

Both emulsifiers are used similarly and require heating.

Step 1 – Prepare the Water Phase

Combine the water-phase ingredients in a heat-resistant vessel.

Examples include:

• Distilled water
• Hydrosols
• Glycerin
• Water-soluble humectants

Step 2 – Prepare the Oil Phase

In a separate vessel combine:

• Carrier oils
• Butters (if used)
• Fatty alcohols (if desired)
• Esters
• Montanov 82 or Montanov 68

The emulsifier is included as part of the total oil phase.

Step 3 – Heat Both Phases

Heat both phases to approximately:

158–167°F (70–75°C)

Ensure the emulsifier is completely melted before combining.

Step 4 – Emulsify

Slowly add the oil phase to the water phase (or follow your preferred validated manufacturing procedure) while mixing with moderate to high shear until a smooth emulsion forms.

Mix for several minutes until the emulsion is uniform.

Step 5 – Cool

Continue gentle mixing while the emulsion cools.

As the temperature decreases, viscosity will gradually increase.

Step 6 – Add Cool-Down Ingredients

Below approximately 104°F (40°C) add ingredients such as:

• Preservative
• Heat-sensitive botanical extracts
• Vitamins
• Fragrance or essential oils
• pH adjusters, if needed

Mix thoroughly.

Step 7 – Check Final Product

Evaluate:

• pH
• Viscosity
• Appearance
• Stability
• Skin feel

Allow the emulsion to mature for 24–48 hours before making final viscosity and stability assessments.

Professional Formulation Tips

• Count Montanov 82 and Montanov 68 as part of the oil phase when calculating your formula.
• For lighter emulsions, reduce the oil phase and choose lighter esters and carrier oils.
• For richer creams, increase the oil phase and incorporate butters such as shea, mango, or kokum.
• Both emulsifiers develop their final viscosity over several hours, so avoid judging the finished texture immediately after emulsification.
• Always perform stability testing when developing a new formulation, particularly when working with high oil phases or unusual ingredient combinations.
  

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