NATURAL GUMS & THICKENERS

If you’re formulating natural haircare and skincare products,  explore these COSMOS-approved natural thickeners and gums used in clean beauty formulations for skincare and haircare, how they function and how to use them. These natural gums and thickeners not only enhance texture and stability but also deliver skin-friendly performance.

In this post, we highlight the top natural thickeners and gums that are COSMOS-certified or compliant, explain how they function, and suggest how to use them in both skincare and haircare formulations.

Why Use Natural Thickeners?

• Biodegradable and eco-friendly

• Gentle and safe for sensitive skin

• Compliant with organic and natural certification standards (COSMOS, ECOCERT)

• Excellent performance in both rinse-off and leave-on products

1. Xanthan Gum (Clear, Soft, Prehydrated)
     INCI: Xanthan Gum

• Function: Thickener, stabilizer, and suspending agent

• Formulations: Serums, gels, shampoos, conditioners, creams

• Effect on Formula: Stabilizes emulsions, suspends particles, adjusts viscosity

• Sensory Feel: Can feel slightly tacky at higher concentrations; soft and smooth in optimized usage (~0.1–0.5%)

2. Tara Gum
      INCI: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

• Function: Natural thickener and stabilizer

• Formulations: Creams, lotions, gels, and hair masks

• Effect on Formula: Increases viscosity, improves texture, synergistic with xanthan gum

• Sensory Feel: Creamy and smooth; less sticky than xanthan alone

3. Cellulose Gum
      INCI: Carboxymethyl Cellulose

• Function: Thickener, film-former, emulsion stabilizer

• Formulations: Toothpastes, lotions, hair conditioners

• Effect on Formula: Adds body and smoothness, improves spreadability

• Sensory Feel: Non-sticky, silky, light

4. Guar Gum
      INCI: Guar Gum

• Function: Thickener, conditioner

• Formulations: Shampoos, hair masks, moisturizers

• Effect on Formula: Boosts viscosity, imparts conditioning and slip to hair

• Sensory Feel: Smooth and conditioning, can be tacky at high concentrations

5. Sclerotium Gum
     INCI: Sclerotium Gum

• Function: Natural gel-former, emulsifier

• Formulations: Serums, masks, body lotions, hair products

• Effect on Formula: Builds stable gel, adds slip and softness

• Sensory Feel: Rich, silky, non-tacky, luxurious skin feel

6. Siligel
     INCI: Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Pullulan

• Function: Multi-functional thickener and texture enhancer

• Formulations: Clear serums, face creams, leave-in conditioners

• Effect on Formula: Creates smooth, elastic, stable gels; emulsifies light oils

• Sensory Feel: Silky, elegant, lightweight with nice spreadability

7. BarThix
     INCI: Tamarind, Guar Gum, Carrageenan

• Function: Thickener with film-forming and moisturizing properties

• Formulations: Cleansers, moisturizers, masks, conditioners

• Effect on Formula: Builds viscosity, hydrates skin, forms a flexible film

• Sensory Feel: Smooth, gel-like texture with moisturizing afterfeel

8. Solagum AX
     INCI: Xanthan + Acacia Gum

• Function: Thickener, emulsion stabilizer, gelling agent

• Formulations: Face cleansers, emulsions, hair detanglers, sunscreens

• Effect on Formula: Creates clear gels, improves emulsion stability, compatible with electrolytes

• Sensory Feel: Silky, fresh, non-sticky finish

9. Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC)
      INCI: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose

• Function: Rheology modifier, thickener, stabilizer

• Formulations: Shampoos, body washes, serums, lotions

• Effect on Formula: Enhances viscosity, improves foaming in surfactant systems

• Sensory Feel: Smooth, glide-on feel; non-tacky
  
  

  NOT APPROVED NATURAL BY COSMOS

  Sepimax™ Zen
  INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

  • Function: High-performing gelling polymer, emulsifier
  • Formulations: Silky creams, serums, sunscreens, BB creams
  • Effect on Formula: Builds thick, elegant gels; stabilizes emulsions with electrolytes; suspends actives
  • Sensory Feel: Soft, non-sticky, cushiony; elegant slip

  
  Sepinov™ EMT 10
  INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

  • Function: Versatile thickener and stabilizer for emulsions and gels
  • Formulations: Lotions, serums, emulsions, sunscreens, cleansing gels
  • Effect on Formula: Tolerates high actives and electrolytes; builds viscosity and clarity
  • Sensory Feel: Lightweight, silky, luxurious glide
    

    
    How to Choose Which to Use:

    Goal	Recommended Ingredient(s)
    Natural thickening	Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Tara Gum, Solagum AX
    Elegant sensory feel	Siligel, Sclerotium Gum, Sepinov EMT 10
    Clear gels	Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Sepimax Zen, Solagum AX
    Conditioning in hair	Guar Gum, BarThix, Solagum AX
    Electrolyte/stability tolerance	Sepinov EMT 10, Sepimax Zen, Solagum AX

    Formulation Tips

    • Xanthan + Tara Gum: Great synergy for a creamier, less tacky texture

    • Solagum AX: Ideal for emulsions needing stability with a light feel

    • Siligel: Best choice for elegant, oil-compatible gel textures

    • Hydroxyethyl Cellulose: Excellent for foaming systems like shampoos and face washes

      Switching to COSMOS-approved thickeners and gums not only elevates your formulation but also aligns with the growing demand for natural and sustainable beauty products. Whether you’re making a gentle face serum or a nourishing hair mask, these natural alternatives offer reliable performance and beautiful textures.

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